
Refrigerators and freezers are among the most significant energy-consuming appliances in the average home. In most cases only space conditioning (heating and cooling) and water heating use more energy. While most people are aware of the importance of saving energy on heating, cooling, and water heating, the energy consumed by refrigerators and freezers is often overlooked.
A ten-year-old refrigerator or freezer can cost considerably more to operate than a new energy-efficient model of the same size. Improvements in the design of compressors and cooling coils, better insulation, tighter door seals, and other design improvements all contribute to the higher efficiencies of newer models.
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Top Freezer Model Refrigerator - Automatic Defrost |
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Energy Use Comparison
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Average Annual kWh Usage |
Average Annual kWh Usage |
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Typical 1998 Model |
Typical 1980 Model |
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14 - 16 cubic ft. |
750 |
1200 |
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16 - 18 cubic ft. |
805 |
1350 |
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18 - 20 cubic ft. |
860 |
1500 |
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20 - 22 cubic ft. |
1050 |
1600 |
Depending on its age, your refrigerator may be so inefficient that replacing it is the wisest decision. Considering the savings in energy costs, a new refrigerator could pay for itself in just a few years. However, a major purchase like this is often not practical. If your refrigerator is running well, it's hard to justify buying a new one.
When the time comes to retire your old refrigerator, look for an energy-efficient model. Even though federal law mandates minimum energy-efficiency levels, there are differences from model to model. In the meantime, here are some suggestions for improving your current refrigerator's performance and efficiency.
General Tips
- The single most effective way to reduce refrigerator energy costs is to remove or unplug unnecessary refrigerators or freezers. Running a second refrigerator or freezer, particularly an older model, only makes sense when the additional cold storage is needed. Consolidate your fresh and frozen foods into one appliance and you'll see the savings.
- Check the door seals. Gaskets on your refrigerator /freezer door can deteriorate over time. Gaskets that do not seal properly can waste a lot of energy by allowing the cold air to leak out. To check the gasket, place a piece of paper between the door and the refrigerator as you close it. If you can move the paper freely from the door, the gasket is not sealing tightly. Another method is to put a flashlight inside the refrigerator to check for leaks. If you can see light around the door gasket, it is not sealing properly.
- Check the temperature. The temperature inside your refrigerator should be between 36° and 38° F. This is usually the mid-level temperature setting on most refrigerators. Use a thermometer to check the temperature and adjust accordingly. Freezers should operate from 0° to 5° F. Setting the temperature just 10° F below the recommended setting can increase energy use by as much as 25%.
- Unplug the refrigerator and clean the dust from the back or bottom coils twice a year. Dirt and dust restrict the air flow around the coils and cause the unit to work harder, increasing energy costs. Make sure there is at least 3 inches of air space between the back of the refrigerator and the wall, and at 1" on both sides of the refrigerator to allow for good air circulation.
- If your refrigerator has a switch for an energy saver mode, use it. This feature disables a small heater in your refrigerator that prevents moisture from building up on the outside of the refrigerator. Unless you see condensation on the outside of your refrigerator, keep this switch off.
- Defrost regularly. Manual and partial automatic defrost refrigerators and freezers should be defrosted at least twice a year.
- Cover foods and liquids. Uncovered foods (especially liquids) will release moisture and cause the refrigerator to use more energy. Keep items covered and contain the moisture in the food where it belongs.
- Fully-loaded refrigerators and freezers operate more efficiently, but avoid overloading to the point where air cannot circulate around the food.
- And finally, the easiest way to save energy ... keep the door closed.
Freezers
Make the most of the freezer compartment in your refrigerator. If a stand-alone freezer is absolutely necessary there are two options: upright or front loading, and chest or top loading freezers. With an upright model, each time the door is opened, the cold air spills out. Because of this, chest freezers are about 25-30% more efficient than uprights, as illustrated in the table below.
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Energy Use Comparison of Upright and Chest Freezers |
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Chest Freezer |
Upright Freezer |
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Size |
Average Annual kWh |
Average Annual kWh |
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7 Cubic Feet |
290 |
400 |
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12 Cubic Feet |
450 |
600 |
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15 Cubic Feet |
525 |
750 |
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20 Cubic Feet |
600 |
900 |
Manual defrost is found more commonly in freezers today. Since freezers are opened less frequently than refrigerators, frost does not build up as quickly. In addition, manual defrost freezers will not dehydrate foods (freezer burn) as an automatic defrost freezer would.
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